Despite being very important (and beautiful), eyelashes are one of the smallest parts of our body! Have you ever tried to weigh an eyelash? We already have, but without success – the weight of an eyelash is so tiny that to differentiate them we only talk about their diameter.
Every client has different eyelash extension needs depending on their own natural eyelashes. In addition to the strength of the client's natural lashes, if measurements are not suitable for the type of eye, extensions may not work well for the client.
What are Volume Lashes?
As you know, classic eyelash extensions are applied in a one-to-one ratio: one extension for a natural eyelash. By adding length and curl they are ideal for clients who have lots of natural lashes.
In the Volume Technique, on the other hand, they are thinner eyelash extensions done in fans that consist of anywhere between 2 to 10 lashes per fan. Each fan is applied to an individual natural lash.
So, instead of having one extension for each natural lash, there can be several thinner extensions for each natural lash of the client.
Diameter and its relationship with Weight
When you are choosing lashes for volume work, it is essential to maintain the diameter (or thickness) to use. The larger the diameter, the thicker and heavier the extension.
The most commonly used diameter for the classic application is 0.15 or 0.20, with 0.20 being thicker and therefore heavier.
Since only one extension is applied to each lash, the diameter in the Classic Technique can be larger than the diameters used for Volume.
In a Volume range, between 2 and 10 lashes are used and therefore much lower thicknesses should be used. Suitable diameters for Volume are 0.03 to 0.07. The diameter, and the number of lashes in each fan, is determined by the client's natural lashes and the desired look.
Creating a volume fan with the right weight may seem simpler than it really is. It's not enough to simply divide the diameter of a thread-by-wire lash by the diameter of a volume lash to see how many lashes are needed.
Here's why: Think of the diameter as the length from one edge of a circle to the opposite edge. When you place multiple circles representing the volume diameters of the lashes in a larger circle representing the diameter of a classic lash, there is an empty space (grey area) that affects the overall weight and is not being counted.
Here are two conversions you can guide yourself through:
Weight of an eyelash 0.10 = Two 0.07 or three 0.05
Weight of an eyelash 0.15 = Four 0.07 or seven 0.05
As you can see, it is not enough to use two 0.07 eyelashes to reach the weight of a 0.15 eyelash. You must use four.
When you are doing volume, you should always consider the need for filling but also the appropriate weight for natural lashes.
Excessive weight can create an overload on natural lashes and compromise in terms of comfort and durability.
Your aim should always be to find the perfect balance for each client.
Every client is different - and that means lashes will be too
Whether you choose to make your own fans or use pre-made fans for volumizing, you should closely examine the client's natural lashes to find the best option. The diameter you choose will determine the weight of the eyelashes and, therefore, the success of the application.
Don't try to make a volume application if you haven't mastered the technique. Since volume application is much more complex than classical application, you should first consider doing proper training.